I prefer a three hand over a chronograph most times. I also prefer the sub-dial layout on the Valjoux over the TMI NE88.
Sub-dials at 6:00, 9:00, and 12:00 for hours, running seconds, and 30 minute (Valjoux)
TMI: NE88
Sub-dials at 3:00, 6:00 and 9:00 for hours, running seconds, and 30 minute
https://www.ablogtowatch.com/stuckx-...7750-movement/
Luckily we already had a business relationship with the special Seiko team called TMI. Their only purpose in business is to supply Seiko movements to other manufacturers. We all know the Seiko reliability and great price/value ratio. Many micro brands use the TMI NH35 automatic movement or NE15 movement along the Miyota 9015 to replace the Swiss movements that are harder to source nowadays.
One of the latest additions to their offering is the automatic chronograph called NE-88. It features a column wheel, a vertical clutch and runs at 28.800 bph. When reading the specs you come away impressed and when trying it you just feel it is built to last. The combination of a column wheel and vertical clutch makes for a supple starting chrono hand without “jerk” as is often noticed in cam-lever operated chronographs.
Other rather famous chrono movements using a column wheel (in a totally different price range) are the Zenith El Primero, the Rolex 4130 and the Lemania 321. A column wheel simply is harder to produce, as it requires additional finishing of parts.
Seiko uses its 8R28 calibre with the column wheel and vertical clutch movement in their high end Ananta series. It was TAG Heuer to use the Seiko TC78 movement as base for their 1887 calibre. If TAG respects the build quality of Seiko, who are we to disagree?
The good part is that the NE-88 It is roughly the same price as the cam-lever operated ETA 7750 with horizontal clutch but with better sales conditions.
More importantly, the Seiko team actually works together with us to bring our products to the market. This means real support to our technical people and all documentation we could ask for.
So when we had to choose between going safe or going safer, we decided to trust our gut feeling and decide for the Seiko/TMI NE-88. This is a partner we trust and at the end that is what counts on the long run.
In effect it makes us the first micro brand to use the NE-88 movement (one could argue that Vostok, who used it in their Mriya model, outgrew the micro-brand status).
We take a leap of faith that the real watch lover will be able to see the value of a Japanese made Seiko chronograph with superior specifications and appreciate our boldness to simply step away from the tried and tested 7750.
I trust Seiko movements myself. That NE88 tenacious looking column wheel looks very sturdy. The cam teeth look like they could eat the Valjoux for dinner. I'm surprised to see more companies besides Ocean Crawler, Invicta, Vostok, Wing and a handful of others have not used it more. Aragon definitely has a very good price for what they are offering on this one. If Swatch shuts the pipeline down again hopefully other brands will be using the NE88 and the newer NE86 movement.
The main difference from the NE88 is that the newer NE86 omits the chronograph's hour counter for a cleaner, distinctly retro look, with just two subdials. The movement offers a date, but Yema has opted to leave it out for the Speedgraf — another choice enthusiasts tend to champion.
WATCH SPECIFICATIONS
Brand
Yema
Model
Speedgraf
Dial
Black matt dial with Super-LumiNova C5 markers and hands. Red-tipped second hand
Case Material
Polished stainless steel case with Aluminum bi-directional bezel
Case Dimensions
39 mm
Crystal
Sapphire domed crystal with AR treatment
Movement
Automatic Seiko NE 86
Strap
Black aged leather, perforated Rally racing style vintage strap
Functions
Chronograph, 30 min counter
Price
1499 EUR / USD
https://www.fratellowatches.com/hand...ema-speedgraf/
Ocean Crawler Shipwreck photos below
The movement inside the Shipwreck Hunter is a Caliber OC777. This is a modified Seiko NE88 chronograph movement. It has a beat rate of 28,800 vibrations per hour, a column wheel and vertical clutch built into it, and a three-point hammer. It has been enhanced for added accuracy.
The column wheel is often found in high-end chronographs, due to the complexity of the manufacturing of the caliber and intensive labor required. Unlike the cam-actuated chronographs, actuation of the column wheel chronograph is incredibly smooth, with no noticeable jerks of the chronograph seconds hand. The smooth action of the hand is achieved because the gearing is lifted in and out of place vertically, and the hand can stop and start precisely where it lays. The three-point hammer resets all chronograph hands to zero instantly when the rest button is engaged.
There are only 100 units made of the Shipwreck Hunter.
A Must-Have Underwater Accessory
Every single Shipwreck Hunter has been immersed in water and has been thoroughly tested to withstand pressures much greater than those found under 2000 feet. This is why the Shipwreck hunter is your best friend for water sports, scuba diving, spearfishing and even ocean-bed exploration.
Not All Diver Watches Were Created Equal. This Is What Makes The Ocean Crawler The Best Diver Watch Available:
- True water resistance to 2000 feet or 600 meters
- All Sapphire Crystal (including the bezel and case back)
- Titanium case with brushed finishes
- Automatic, precise diver watch – no batteries needed. Watch winds itself with the movement of your wrist.
- Thick domed sapphire crystal glass with 3.5mm thickness. An anti-reflective coating is applied to the domed glass to prevent any reflection under water.
- Guaranteed to keep precise time for at least 5 years.
Technical Specs:
- Case Diameter (excluding crown): 43.0mm
- Case Thickness: 16mm, Lug-To-Lug: 50.6mm, Lug Width: 20mm
- Case Material: Titanium
- Bezel: Unidirectional Rotating Sapphire Bezel with 120 Clicks and Swiss SuperLuminova Markers
- Movement Accuracy. +/- 1 seconds/day in 3 positions
- Water Resistance: 600 meters, 2000-feet or 60 ATM
Ocean Crawler Shipwreck Hunter Chrono
The Shipwreck Hunter, has been designed to be the ultimate diving watch. With one of the most accurate automatic chronograph watches currently in production at +/- 1 second accuracy. Every single Ocean Crawler has been immersed in water and has been thoroughly tested to withstand pressures up to 2000 feet....
PRICE:
$2,999.00
https://www.oceancrawler.com/product...unter-chrono-1