The Jacob & Co. Astronomia Clarity
Aug 13, 2021
Jacob & Co.
The Astronomia Clarity Rose Gold features a 50mm case made almost entirely of sapphire crystal with 18K rose gold frame and lugs. This provides the clearest view yet of the iconic Astronomia four-arm vertical movement and its four exclusive complications, which revolve within the case every 20 minutes: The patented triple-axis gravitational tourbillon, the time display subdial with the patented differential system, the rotating exclusive Jacob Cut diamond with 288 facets, and the rotating magnesium and lacquered globe.
.
STORY
The Astronomia is the embodiment of 21st century ultra-high-end watchmaking and a globally recognized symbol of Jacob & Co watchmaking expertise. A world-first both in the boldness of its unprecedented concept and its entirely mechanical construction, the Astronomia has gone beyond impressive horological achievements to becoming an outstanding multidisciplinary engineering accomplishment.
At the center of the Astronomia is an unprecedented four-arm movement. Attached to each arm is a novel complication. Two of the complications have earned patents because of their design and engineering. The other two are original works of art that highlight Jacob & Co.'s skilled craftsmanship. When combined, they contribute to a spectacle of moving objects that rotates and floats inside a spectacular sapphire crystal case.
The Astronomia Clarity highlights the very essence of Astronomia in the purest of ways: it presents this unparalleled cinematic sculpture by the unrestricted use of sapphire crystals - including across the entire case-back - while keeping the original Astronomia's iconic 18K gold case frame.
Jacob Arabo, the founder of Jacob & Co. said the Astronomia was inspired by the universe and all the ideas and wonderment of celestial bodies. Since its introduction in 2014, the stars, the moon and planets take on a new wonderment and meaning with each new piece. Even as the Astronomia story continues, it has already earned its place in the world of haute horlogerie and extreme extravagance.
EXCLUSIVE ASTRONOMIA CALIBER
The groundbreaking Astronomia four-arm vertical movement has proven to be a creative and technical watchmaking achievement. Each arm has a unique complication exclusive to Jacob & Co.: A magnesium and hand-lacquered globe of the earth, a spherical-shaped diamond with 288 facets known as the "Jacob-Cut," a patented triple-axis tourbillon, and a subdial for the hours and minutes with a patented timepiece-differential gear system.
Each pair of opposing arms are perfectly calculated counterweights of one another - a testament to peerless materials engineering and watch movement design. Any variation of the weight would cause the movement to malfunction. Instead, this high complication and all its moving parts run effortlessly for all to see.
TRIPLE-AXIS TOURBILLON
The tourbillon was originally invented to provide improved timekeeping performance for a pocket watch. The Astronomia Tourbillon brings this 200-plus-year-old complication to breathtaking levels of modern refinement and complexity.
The triple-axis tourbillon of the Astronomia Tourbillon is at the forefront of modern watchmaking. The delicately decorated cage encapsulates the balance wheel, hairspring, escape wheel and several other important components. Characterized by this openworked cage, this outstanding tourbillon rotates on three axes simultaneously. It is a constellation of superbly finished components that, when expertly assembled and fine-tuned, allows the Astronomia caliber to keep accurate time throughout its 60-hour power reserve.
A full rotation on the 1st axis takes exactly 60 seconds, as a nod towards the traditional single-axis tourbillon. The 2nd axis of rotation requires 2.5 minutes to complete, while the 3rd axis of rotation is made possible by the 10-minute, four-arm rotating platform of the Astronomia movement. This makes for a bold new way at how tourbillons can function, when engineered with cutting-edge, ultra-modern technologies and timeless horological heritage in mind.
288-FACET JACOB-CUT DIAMOND
The Jacob-Cut is the signature cut for the diamonds and gems that appear on all Jacob & Co. Astronomia timepieces. It always marks its presence on one of the arms of the Astronomia vertical movement and at times it graces other parts of its extra-large watches. It is a distinctive work of innovation, creativity and execution.
The spherical, 288-faceted gem is a unique cut exclusive to Jacob & Co.
The Jacob-Cut diamond starts out as a much larger rough, up to twice the size as the finished product. Quality is important, with clarity being the most prized of the four Cs of diamond quality. If there is any sign of an inclusion the diamond must be scrapped.
The rough diamond is first cut by machine into a spherical shape, near the size of the final diamond. Then the master gem cutter does his work, shaping the stone by hand and cutting each of the 288 facets while maintaining its shape. The danger is that the stone will become oblong, losing its round shape. To be used in the Astronomia Collection, the Jacob-Cut diamond must be completely round and weigh exactly as much as the other three satellites (time display, triple-axis tourbillon, magnesium globe) to maintain stability of the movement. One-carat is the standard size, but other sizes have been specified depending on how it is used within the movement.
Another challenge is ensuring the precise dimensions of the facets. If the gem cutter puts slightly too much pressure on the stone while adding the facets, too much of the diamond will be cut away, and the sphere will be too small to use. The cutting process takes at least two weeks of dedicated, painstaking work.
The Jacob-Cut is most recognizable on the Astronomia watch as a diamond that extends from one of the four arms of the vertical Astronomia movement. It rotates at different rates various depending on the other elements and the theme of the watch. However, the cut has been applied on colored gemstones and placed in the dial in other ways.
In addition to the standard 288-carat white diamond, a special red and black version of the Astronomia Clarity is available with a blue sapphire.
THE MAGNESIUM GLOBE
The globe of the earth is made of magnesium coated with hand-painted blue lacquer and completed with rose gold continents. It is done in a way that ensures consistency in weight, as all four satellites must weigh exactly the same. The globe rotates every 30 seconds while traveling around the dial every 10 minutes.
CASE & CRYSTAL
The Astronomia Clarity's case measures 50 millimeters in diameter and 25.45 millimeters thick between the highest point of its specially curved front sapphire crystal and the lowest point of its case. Crafted from 18K Rose Gold and sapphire crystal on the top sides and case back, the Clarity case adds to the viewing experience - allowing for unhindered appreciation of the spectacular caliber inside.
DIAL & HANDS
The time display sub-dial of the Astronomia is driven through a differential system that allows it to always remain level and legible as it rotates with the movement's four-arm platform across the front of the Astronomia. The Roman numerals on the white titanium skeletonized dial are hand-engraved and filled with black lacquer, while the hand-finished hands appear in gun blue metallic.
AT A GLANCE:
Iconic gravitational triple-axis tourbillon
50mm 18K rose gold and sapphire crystal Clarity case, with sapphire crystal back
All four satellites constantly turn around the dial in 10 minutes
288-facet Jacob-cut diamond turning in 30 seconds
Magnesium globe turning in 30 seconds
Unique patented differential always keeps the time display in the correct 12/6 orientation, no matter where it is the rotation
Domed and curved, anti-reflective sapphire crystal
Unique crown-less design; winding and setting lift-out bows on the case back
TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS
- ITEM NUMBER: AT120.40.AD.SD.A
Movement: Manufacture Jacob&Co. Manual Winding JCAM12; Diameter: 40mm; Height: 17.15mm; Material: Titanium; Sapphire Barrel Bridge; Components: 365; Power Reserve: 60-Hours; Frequency: 21'600 vib/h (3 Hz); Jewels: 42; System: Gravitational Triple Axis Tourbillon; Finishing: Plate and Bridges: Hand Angled and Polished, Flank Draw, Circular Graining, Polished Sink, One Sapphire Bridge; Polished Screws; Barrel: Circular Graining; Pinions: Conical Pinions; 4 Mechanical Ball Bearing Devices; Flat Balance Spring.
Functions:Hours, Minutes Dial Rotating in 10 minutes on the Central Axis, Patented Differential Gears System; Spherical 288 Facets Jacob-Cut White Diamond, Weight: 1 carat; rotating in 30 seconds on 2 axes; Magnesium Lacquered Globe Rotating in 30 seconds on 2 axes; Gravitational Tourbillon Cage Rotating on 3 axes: 1st Axis: in 60 seconds, 2nd Axis: in 2.5 minutes, 3rd Axis: Central Axe in 10 minutes
Case: 50mm; Thickness: 25.45mm; Material: 18K Rose Gold; Sapphire with Double Anti-reflective Treatment; Case Back: Sapphire with Double Anti-reflective Treatment Gold Metallisation; Bows: Winding and Time-Setting via 18K Rose Gold; Lugs: 80 Baguette White Diamonds Invisibly Set (≈ 6.10 ct.); Crystal: Unique Domed Sapphire with Anti-reflective Treatment; Waterresistance: 30m.
Dial & Hands: Dial: Titanium Dial, Polished and Angled,Lacquered Indexes; Hands: Hand Finished Blue.
Strap & Clasp: Alligator; Clasp: 18K Rose Gold Folding Buckle.Total Carat Weight: 80 Baguette White Diamonds (≈ 6.10 ct.).
Limited Edition: 9 pieces.