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- Jul 17, 2014
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Mar 5, 2021
Today is something I consider to be a bit of a milestone in watchmaking history. Two watches, both found at the peak of human ability, beauty and creativity, both demonstrating unimpeachable quality and artistry—and neither one is from Switzerland. Can the dominance of Swiss watchmaking as we know it really be over?
Featured Watches:
A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Thin 211.032
Credor Mokume Gane GBBY986
Beautiful exterior finish suitable for a dress watch
The caliber 68 series movement is suitable for dress watches and features a beautiful exterior finish. At the time of completion, it is only 1.98 mm, and each part is cut in units of 1/100 mm, and some parts are beautifully patterned. When winding the royal fern, enjoy the beautiful case finish that you can see from the see-through back and the relaxed heartbeat of 6 vibrations.
Today, this precious "Mokume-gane" technique, which is mainly used for jewelry, is used for the dial of watches. A beautiful limited edition model that changes its unique and graceful look depending on the viewing angle was born.
* Mokume-gane is
a metalworking technique that originated in Japan and was born in the Edo period 400 years ago. It's a technology.
The design concept is "Kazemoku"
Among the wood grain, the one that is particularly decorative and beautiful is called "Moku". The dial of this model is an original design that sublimates the beautiful scenery of the fruitful rice ears fluttering in the wind, which is the original scenery of Japan, into a modern expression. We call it "Kazemoku".
The dials are handmade one by one by a limited number of craftsmen with outstanding skills under the supervision of Masaki Takahashi of Mokumeganeya Co., Ltd. (* 1). 18K white, yellow, pink gold, and silver metal plates are layered on top of each other to create a single plate, which is then engraved and spread evenly to create a graceful wood grain pattern on a flat surface. Assuming the pattern to be completed, the work of changing the stacking order and number of materials and adjusting the carving depth and the pressure when stretching requires delicate handwork and deep experience. It is truly a unique beauty created by skilled craftsmanship and multiple layers of precious metals, and its expression makes the dial rich in individuality and responds to long-standing attachment.
This limited edition model, which is a fusion of an ultra-thin mechanical movement and a wood grain dial, created by the advanced handiwork of a limited number of craftsmen, is a luxurious gem unique to Credor.
After graduating from the Department of Metal Engraving, Graduate School of Fine Arts, Tokyo University of the Arts in 1997, he became a lecturer at the Department of Metal Engraving, Faculty of Fine Arts, Tokyo University of the Arts, 1997. Founded Morime Kinya in 1945, and reached the current Morime Kinya Co., Ltd.
In 2012, a series of treatises on Mokume-gane was evaluated, and he was the only one in Japan to obtain a "Doctor (art)" on Mokume-gane. As a representative of Morime Kinya, he is involved in research, design, guidance of craftsmen, and quality confirmation of all works. In addition to the Good Design Award, the German reddot design award, and the iF design award, it has received high praise from home and abroad, including receiving the "Manufacturing Japan Award" from the Minister of Economy, Trade and Industry.
(* 2) What is Shizukuishi Luxury Watch Studio?
Located in Morioka Seiko Kogyo Co., Ltd. (Shizukuishi-cho, Iwate-gun, Iwate Prefecture), we carry out everything from parts manufacturing to assembly. Established in 2004, it is one of Japan's leading workshops specializing in high-end mechanical watches.
The 18K pink gold case houses the
ultra-thin hand-wound movement "Caliber 6890" made by Shizukuishi Luxury Watch Studio .
Due to its thinness of only 1.98 mm, the shape correction of each part and the adjustment of the
agaki (the gap required between parts) require an
accuracy of 1/100 mm, and even a skilled watchmaker can do it. A
small production movement that can be assembled from only one or two pieces a day. This limited edition model, which is a fusion of
an
ultra-thin mechanical movement and a wood grain dial , created by the advanced handiwork of a limited number of craftsmen, is a
luxurious gem unique to Credor.
* Shizukuishi Luxury Watch Studio is located in
Morioka Seiko Kogyo Co., Ltd. (Shizukuishi-cho, Iwate-gun, Iwate Prefecture), and handles everything from parts manufacturing to assembly. Established in 2004, it is one of Japan's leading workshops specializing in high-end mechanical watches.
accessories in the samurai society about 400 years ago, was used for accessories and daily necessities along with the rise of tradesman culture during the Edo period of Taihei , when armor became unnecessary.
"Mokume-gane" is a technique used for the sword guard, and
is a traditional metal craft technique that originated in Japan and is known in the world as "Mokume Gane".
1997After graduating from the Department of Metal Engraving, Graduate School of Fine Arts, Tokyo University of the Arts, he became a lecturer at the Department of Metal Engraving, Faculty of Fine Arts, Tokyo University of the Arts, and at the same time founded Morime Kinya Co., Ltd.year 2012A series of papers on Mokume-gane was evaluated, and he was the only one in Japan to obtain a "Doctor (art)" on Mokume-gane. As a representative of Morime Kinya, he is involved in research, design, guidance of craftsmen, and quality confirmation of all works.year 2012Received the "red dot design award", an international product design award (Germany)2015Received the "Good Design Award" for the first time as a wedding ring2016Received "red dot design award"2017Received "red dot design award"2018Received the 7th "Manufacturing Japan Award" Minister of Economy, Trade and Industry Award
"i F Design Award" (Germany)
The reason I was attracted to Mokume-gane was that it was a technology that had the potential to take advantage of chance. In general metal crafts, you can't do more than your own skill, and the basic stance is to twist and control the material. Mokume-gane is basically the same, but it still changes unexpectedly. The real thrill of making it is that dialogue with metal is indispensable, and it is exciting that changes beyond imagination occur each time. It was because I wanted to spread this. However, I think that technology cannot survive unless it is actually used and creates a new sense of value. Even if it is a traditional technique. That is why we have adopted the idea of connecting the creator and the user, and make the best use of the characteristics of Mokume-gane, which produces patterns from the processing marks of the production process.
I think that the limited model produced this time has a smooth relationship with nature, which the material originally has, due to the concept of "Kazemori". Mokume-gane is a technique that makes the most of the fluctuations by human hands, and the viewer may feel it. Each time you look at it, it shows a different expression, and even if you change its shape, it looks like a mineral is alive. I think that the sense of life is also connected to the clock that keeps ticking. Furthermore, in terms of affinity with watches, Mokume-gane was not born as a weapon in the Taihei era, but as a decoration of the sword guard that became one of the costumes. I think the watch also has an accessory element for men. It feels like it's no coincidence that Mokume-gane is used in watches in modern times.
Today is something I consider to be a bit of a milestone in watchmaking history. Two watches, both found at the peak of human ability, beauty and creativity, both demonstrating unimpeachable quality and artistry—and neither one is from Switzerland. Can the dominance of Swiss watchmaking as we know it really be over?
Featured Watches:
A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Thin 211.032
Credor Mokume Gane GBBY986
Beautiful exterior finish suitable for a dress watch
The caliber 68 series movement is suitable for dress watches and features a beautiful exterior finish. At the time of completion, it is only 1.98 mm, and each part is cut in units of 1/100 mm, and some parts are beautifully patterned. When winding the royal fern, enjoy the beautiful case finish that you can see from the see-through back and the relaxed heartbeat of 6 vibrations.
A beautiful limited edition model that uses the ancient Japanese metal processing technology "Mokume-gane"
The annual ring that Credor has walked. To express this, the dial was decorated with the metal craft technique "Mokume-gane" that has been handed down since the Edo period.Today, this precious "Mokume-gane" technique, which is mainly used for jewelry, is used for the dial of watches. A beautiful limited edition model that changes its unique and graceful look depending on the viewing angle was born.
* Mokume-gane is
a metalworking technique that originated in Japan and was born in the Edo period 400 years ago. It's a technology.
The design concept is "Kazemoku"
Among the wood grain, the one that is particularly decorative and beautiful is called "Moku". The dial of this model is an original design that sublimates the beautiful scenery of the fruitful rice ears fluttering in the wind, which is the original scenery of Japan, into a modern expression. We call it "Kazemoku".
The dials are handmade one by one by a limited number of craftsmen with outstanding skills under the supervision of Masaki Takahashi of Mokumeganeya Co., Ltd. (* 1). 18K white, yellow, pink gold, and silver metal plates are layered on top of each other to create a single plate, which is then engraved and spread evenly to create a graceful wood grain pattern on a flat surface. Assuming the pattern to be completed, the work of changing the stacking order and number of materials and adjusting the carving depth and the pressure when stretching requires delicate handwork and deep experience. It is truly a unique beauty created by skilled craftsmanship and multiple layers of precious metals, and its expression makes the dial rich in individuality and responds to long-standing attachment.
Ultra-thin movement suitable for luxury mechanical watches
In the 18K pink gold case, the ultra-thin hand-wound movement "Caliber 6890" made by Shizukuishi Luxury Watch Studio (* 2) is housed. Due to its thinness of only 1.98 mm, the shape correction of each part and the adjustment of the agaki (the gap required between parts) require an accuracy of 1/100 mm, and even a skilled watchmaker can do it. A small production movement that can be assembled from only one or two pieces a day.This limited edition model, which is a fusion of an ultra-thin mechanical movement and a wood grain dial, created by the advanced handiwork of a limited number of craftsmen, is a luxurious gem unique to Credor.
(* 1) Masaki Takahashi, Representative Director of Mokumeganeya Co., Ltd.After graduating from the Department of Metal Engraving, Graduate School of Fine Arts, Tokyo University of the Arts in 1997, he became a lecturer at the Department of Metal Engraving, Faculty of Fine Arts, Tokyo University of the Arts, 1997. Founded Morime Kinya in 1945, and reached the current Morime Kinya Co., Ltd.
In 2012, a series of treatises on Mokume-gane was evaluated, and he was the only one in Japan to obtain a "Doctor (art)" on Mokume-gane. As a representative of Morime Kinya, he is involved in research, design, guidance of craftsmen, and quality confirmation of all works. In addition to the Good Design Award, the German reddot design award, and the iF design award, it has received high praise from home and abroad, including receiving the "Manufacturing Japan Award" from the Minister of Economy, Trade and Industry.
(* 2) What is Shizukuishi Luxury Watch Studio?
Located in Morioka Seiko Kogyo Co., Ltd. (Shizukuishi-cho, Iwate-gun, Iwate Prefecture), we carry out everything from parts manufacturing to assembly. Established in 2004, it is one of Japan's leading workshops specializing in high-end mechanical watches.
The 18K pink gold case houses the
ultra-thin hand-wound movement "Caliber 6890" made by Shizukuishi Luxury Watch Studio .
Due to its thinness of only 1.98 mm, the shape correction of each part and the adjustment of the
agaki (the gap required between parts) require an
accuracy of 1/100 mm, and even a skilled watchmaker can do it. A
small production movement that can be assembled from only one or two pieces a day. This limited edition model, which is a fusion of
an
ultra-thin mechanical movement and a wood grain dial , created by the advanced handiwork of a limited number of craftsmen, is a
luxurious gem unique to Credor.
* Shizukuishi Luxury Watch Studio is located in
Morioka Seiko Kogyo Co., Ltd. (Shizukuishi-cho, Iwate-gun, Iwate Prefecture), and handles everything from parts manufacturing to assembly. Established in 2004, it is one of Japan's leading workshops specializing in high-end mechanical watches.
Traditional technique "Mokume-gane"
Mokume-gane, a metalworking technique that developed along with swordaccessories in the samurai society about 400 years ago, was used for accessories and daily necessities along with the rise of tradesman culture during the Edo period of Taihei , when armor became unnecessary.
"Mokume-gane" is a technique used for the sword guard, and
is a traditional metal craft technique that originated in Japan and is known in the world as "Mokume Gane".
History of Mokume-gane
About Mokume-gane creator
Masaki Takahashi,
CEO of Morime Kanaya Co., Ltd.
1997After graduating from the Department of Metal Engraving, Graduate School of Fine Arts, Tokyo University of the Arts, he became a lecturer at the Department of Metal Engraving, Faculty of Fine Arts, Tokyo University of the Arts, and at the same time founded Morime Kinya Co., Ltd.year 2012A series of papers on Mokume-gane was evaluated, and he was the only one in Japan to obtain a "Doctor (art)" on Mokume-gane. As a representative of Morime Kinya, he is involved in research, design, guidance of craftsmen, and quality confirmation of all works.year 2012Received the "red dot design award", an international product design award (Germany)2015Received the "Good Design Award" for the first time as a wedding ring2016Received "red dot design award"2017Received "red dot design award"2018Received the 7th "Manufacturing Japan Award" Minister of Economy, Trade and Industry Award
"i F Design Award" (Germany)
Thoughts of the creator
The reason I was attracted to Mokume-gane was that it was a technology that had the potential to take advantage of chance. In general metal crafts, you can't do more than your own skill, and the basic stance is to twist and control the material. Mokume-gane is basically the same, but it still changes unexpectedly. The real thrill of making it is that dialogue with metal is indispensable, and it is exciting that changes beyond imagination occur each time. It was because I wanted to spread this. However, I think that technology cannot survive unless it is actually used and creates a new sense of value. Even if it is a traditional technique. That is why we have adopted the idea of connecting the creator and the user, and make the best use of the characteristics of Mokume-gane, which produces patterns from the processing marks of the production process.
I think that the limited model produced this time has a smooth relationship with nature, which the material originally has, due to the concept of "Kazemori". Mokume-gane is a technique that makes the most of the fluctuations by human hands, and the viewer may feel it. Each time you look at it, it shows a different expression, and even if you change its shape, it looks like a mineral is alive. I think that the sense of life is also connected to the clock that keeps ticking. Furthermore, in terms of affinity with watches, Mokume-gane was not born as a weapon in the Taihei era, but as a decoration of the sword guard that became one of the costumes. I think the watch also has an accessory element for men. It feels like it's no coincidence that Mokume-gane is used in watches in modern times.
Production flow
- The thickness of the metal plate of 18K white, yellow, pink gold, and silver is set to 0.15 to 0.2 mm, assuming the pattern to be expressed. Polish the front and back of each sheet with a file to completely degreas.
- Metal plates are laminated and diffusion-bonded (*) in an electronic furnace. A high-strength laminated metal plate is produced by joining metals with different melting points for each material at an optimally balanced temperature, time, and pressure.
* Diffusion bonding: A method of bonding using the diffusion of atoms by heating and pressurizing without melting the metal without using a bonding material.
- Each one is manually engraved with a leutor (electric cutting tool), and heating and stretching with a roller are repeated. By changing the carving depth depending on the location, the color of the metal that appears on the surface is changed, and the finish is such that the ideal wood grain pattern can be expressed.
- Carefully and evenly apply pressure to stretch the board so that it has a thickness of 0.8 mm, and make the wood grain pattern appear on the flat surface. Finish the surface so that the pattern stands out.
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^^^^^
electronics manufacturers in the world...went on trips to Japan over 40 times
... immensely enjoyed their hospitality 
and loved the food
...saw a lot of things over the years 
and learned so much from them and shaped my own personal view of the world 
...and lastly they are mainly responsible for my comfortable retirement today 
.
). You see the "watch bug" really didn't "bite me" until a few years AFTER I retired and I no longer traveled to Asia... Of course today with the internet and worldwide shipping, physical travel isn't really required to buy those fine domestic Japanese timepieces, but it sure is fun to shop for them in person 
.
Thanks for adding this post, Mike. 