Sellita SW200 Helicopter Effect Spinning Rotor

roadwarrior

Grand Tyme Master
Founding Member
Joined
Jul 17, 2014
Messages
64,647
This is why I'm not a fan of the SW200. This has happened before and Elshan had to send me a new watch. He mentioned to me this is an issue he has seen often with SELLITA.

I'll probably be contacting Ocean Crawler for a return label. I felt the tightness in the crown while winding it. Today it felt like the rotor was trying to take off and was spinning violently. It is really bad when trying to screw in the crown after winding. This is exactly what happened to my ZELOS.




From the web.

Sellita SW200 Helicopter effect spinning rotor

The spinning rotor issue is a reference to hand winding the movement and the rotor is being turned as you wind. It adds weight or stiffness to the feel of the crown and puts strain on the ratchet wheel. If you persist to wind as it stiffens up it will do some damage.

This has to do with the lubrication of the Reverser wheels. These are part of the winding mechanism that allows hand winding the movement. As the crown winding becomes stiffer they cause the rotor to be turned as you wind. This explains the stiff winding and the feeling that the Rotor is actual spinning as you wind. If you force the Crown while winding and feeling the stiffness it will actually break the teeth on the Ratchet wheel. (as I found out). You can no longer hand wind at this point as the crown feels disconnected.

With the stiff winder, spinning Rotor or broken teeth on the Ratchet wheel, the watch will still work, if you charge it via movement on the wrist. In other words, the issue doesn't stop the watch from working. However, I wouldn't want those broken teeth doing other damage as they bounce about inside.


 
It isn't cool these SW200 movements and this issue. I purchased the Ocean Crawler on June 25th, 2021. The ZELOS was only two weeks old when the same thing happened.

That's why I've been in the habit of winding new watches daily for several weeks, especially any SELLITA SW200 movements. The issue so far has happened while it was under warranty. I shot Christian an email early this morning and I'm still waiting to hear something.

I'll take a Miyota 9000 series all day, every day over the SW200.
 
Wow, this sucks.
Believe it or not I had the same issue with a SW500. I believe I even mentioned it here. The rotor would spin when winding the crown and the crown was super stiff also. I sent it off to TWR (at the time) and they said it was a lubrication issue. Had to disassemble the entire movement, clean and lube. Much better but cost me nearly $500. For a watch that was only a year old.
I hope your watch is corrected to your satisfaction, Mike.
 
I'm glad to hear you have not had this issue Dayman. One thing you will notice if this issue should occur. The crown will feel tight when winding compared to ones that operate normal. What happens afterwards may take a few days, weeks or months, but that is the first indication. When it progresses you will feel the rotor spin out of control. Elshan told me he has had the most issues with Sellita and prefers ETA when they are available to source, but I'm just as happy with the MIYOTA 9039 and it saves a few bucks as well. I have dozens of MIYOTA 9000 movements and not one has ever had any issues. I have quite a few Sellita as well, but the jury is still out on those. I'll have to start adding them to the lineup for daily winding.
 
Wow, this sucks.
Believe it or not I had the same issue with a SW500. I believe I even mentioned it here. The rotor would spin when winding the crown and the crown was super stiff also. I sent it off to TWR (at the time) and they said it was a lubrication issue. Had to disassemble the entire movement, clean and lube. Much better but cost me nearly $500. For a watch that was only a year old.
I hope your watch is corrected to your satisfaction, Mike.

Thanks Shooter. That is the problem you described HK. ZELOS shipped another watch FedEx. He told me to hang on to the other ABYSS. When I was positive the replacement was fine he would have FedEx pick the bad one up. So far, Ocean Crawler has had positive reports and my correspondence with Christian has been positive. I never even wore this trinket. I've used it to take some photos, but I never wear any trinket unless I give it a good workout winding them, especially if they have SELLITA movements.
 
Thanks Shooter. That is the problem you described HK.
I was really new to the watch world when this occurred so didn't know much about it. At the time the advice on the forums was "wear it, it's fine".
The watch was a BiGI unit and I knew warranty would have been an exercise in futility so I paid OOP. Still have it and like the watch though it's been sent off again for missing lume replacement such as I indicated in a recent thread.
 
I'm glad to hear you have not had this issue Dayman. One thing you will notice if this issue should occur. The crown will feel tight when winding compared to ones that operate normal. What happens afterwards may take a few days, weeks or months, but that is the first indication. When it progresses you will feel the rotor spin out of control. Elshan told me he has had the most issues with Sellita and prefers ETA when they are available to source, but I'm just as happy with the MIYOTA 9039 and it saves a few bucks as well. I have dozens of MIYOTA 9000 movements and not one has ever had any issues. I have quite a few Sellita as well, but the jury is still out on those. I'll have to start adding them to the lineup for daily winding.
:wink: Thanks for the HU, Mike. I will watch for the tell tail signs you have given me.:shake: Thanks again, my friend.:cheers:
 
I'm glad to hear you have not had this issue Dayman. One thing you will notice if this issue should occur. The crown will feel tight when winding compared to ones that operate normal. What happens afterwards may take a few days, weeks or months, but that is the first indication. When it progresses you will feel the rotor spin out of control. Elshan told me he has had the most issues with Sellita and prefers ETA when they are available to source, but I'm just as happy with the MIYOTA 9039 and it saves a few bucks as well. I have dozens of MIYOTA 9000 movements and not one has ever had any issues. I have quite a few Sellita as well, but the jury is still out on those. I'll have to start adding them to the lineup for daily winding.
Yeah my new Crawler is pretty tight when turning crown. Feels tighter than normal for sure. Also tighter than normal when screwing crown back in. Starts to really feel crazy at about 15 winds. I've never wound it past 20 winds because it feels like something is gonna break and I hear a clicking sound. My Crawler has felt like this from the first wind when i got the watch. I'm interested in their reply. Keep me up-to-date.
 
Last edited:
I've read that some of the movements are "renewed" using a 2-digit customer service code is engraved to show that the movement has been renewed. There are other etched codes that also tell where the origin of the movement comes from.







Official Sellita documentation states that the crown should be in the time setting position before being extracted.

Sellita caliber SW200-1​

Use a 1mm screw-driver, avoid using tweezers or any other tool with a point because this could jam the setting lever and damage the setting lever spring. There are many models with this movement, please comment below if your watch has it and tell the Caliber Corner community what you think of it. Seiko Watch Service Intervals and Prices.







SELLITA DATE CODES:​

Under the balance wheel, near the caliber number engraving, you may have seen what looks to be a laser etched code containing DM and XYZ.

  • DM means that the movement origin is from Sellita Watch Co (where else would it be from we’re not sure).
  • XYZ is a Sellita code (we’re not sure the meaning, comment below if you know)
As for the date part of the code, new movements produced in 2018 look like this:

  • DM18.1/XYZ = JAN+FEB
  • DM18.2/XYZ = MAR+APRIL
  • DM18.3/XYZ = MAY+JUNE
  • DM18.4/XYZ = JULY+AUG
  • DM18.5/XYZ = SEPT+OCT
  • DM18.6/XYZ = NOV+DEC
There is also a code for what Sellita refers to as “Renewed Movements”. The meaning of this still needs to be confirmed, but it appears that this is for movements that were sent back to Sellita for renewal. Perhaps brands are able to buy them at a discount. We still don’t know, but please check your movement for a two digit number starting with 2X. For reference:

Renewed Movements
A 2-digit customer service code is engraved to show that the movement has been renewed.
20 for 2020, 21 for 2021, etc.

 
Last edited:
I've read that some of the movements are "renewed" using a 2-digit customer service code is engraved to show that the movement has been renewed. There are other etched codes that also tell where the origin of the movement comes from.









SELLITA DATE CODES:​

Under the balance wheel, near the caliber number engraving, you may have seen what looks to be a laser etched code containing DM and XYZ.

  • DM means that the movement origin is from Sellita Watch Co (where else would it be from we’re not sure).
  • XYZ is a Sellita code (we’re not sure the meaning, comment below if you know)
As for the date part of the code, new movements produced in 2018 look like this:

  • DM18.1/XYZ = JAN+FEB
  • DM18.2/XYZ = MAR+APRIL
  • DM18.3/XYZ = MAY+JUNE
  • DM18.4/XYZ = JULY+AUG
  • DM18.5/XYZ = SEPT+OCT
  • DM18.6/XYZ = NOV+DEC
There is also a code for what Sellita refers to as “Renewed Movements”. The meaning of this still needs to be confirmed, but it appears that this is for movements that were sent back to Sellita for renewal. Perhaps brands are able to buy them at a discount. We still don’t know, but please check your movement for a two digit number starting with 2X. For reference:



Too me it feels like the watch is fully wound at 15 turns. Hoping maybe it's the way they've built the watch? It's never felt right the moment I took it out of the box. Keeps perfect time and power reserve seems on point. All my SW200's have been flawless, but this one doesn't feel right. I've noticed screwing the crown in is tighter than normal wound or not wound, it's just tight period. Let me know what they say and if I have to send it back in, then that's what I'll do. Basically my watch sounds exactly like your watch.
 
I've read that some of the movements are "renewed" using a 2-digit customer service code is engraved to show that the movement has been renewed. There are other etched codes that also tell where the origin of the movement comes from.







Official Sellita documentation states that the crown should be in the time setting position before being extracted.

Sellita caliber SW200-1​

Use a 1mm screw-driver, avoid using tweezers or any other tool with a point because this could jam the setting lever and damage the setting lever spring. There are many models with this movement, please comment below if your watch has it and tell the Caliber Corner community what you think of it. Seiko Watch Service Intervals and Prices.







SELLITA DATE CODES:​

Under the balance wheel, near the caliber number engraving, you may have seen what looks to be a laser etched code containing DM and XYZ.

  • DM means that the movement origin is from Sellita Watch Co (where else would it be from we’re not sure).
  • XYZ is a Sellita code (we’re not sure the meaning, comment below if you know)
As for the date part of the code, new movements produced in 2018 look like this:

  • DM18.1/XYZ = JAN+FEB
  • DM18.2/XYZ = MAR+APRIL
  • DM18.3/XYZ = MAY+JUNE
  • DM18.4/XYZ = JULY+AUG
  • DM18.5/XYZ = SEPT+OCT
  • DM18.6/XYZ = NOV+DEC
There is also a code for what Sellita refers to as “Renewed Movements”. The meaning of this still needs to be confirmed, but it appears that this is for movements that were sent back to Sellita for renewal. Perhaps brands are able to buy them at a discount. We still don’t know, but please check your movement for a two digit number starting with 2X. For reference:



Just checked my other Crawler and it feels almost exactly like the new one I received. I've only ever wound it 10 times and let my wrist do the rest, but just now I've wound it up 20 times and its exactly like my other Crawler, just not as tight. Maybe there's nothing wrong with mine? Both being almost identical, maybe it's the way they're built?
 
When I hear back I will let you know and good luck with you OCC. I used the contact form on the Ocean Crawler site for the initial e-mail. I haven't head back yet, but I'll give it a few more days. He could be away or something. I have anther e-mail I've used as well for Christian. If I don't hear anything by the weekend I'll use that one. I always try to keep in mind that ET is a rare bird getting back in hours usually.

It can only get worse and I'll wind it normally until something breaks. If it is that fragile I'm not going to not wind something that is meant to be wound. If this is an inherent flaw and they say it only happens while winding that is a big problem for me. Old movements that were shakers are one thing, but if it is meant to be hand wound as well, things should not break on a watch that I've only had since August 2021. If it is going to break I would rather find out while it is still under warranty.
 
When I hear back I will let you know and good luck with you OCC. I used the contact form on the Ocean Crawler site for the initial e-mail. I haven't head back yet, but I'll give it a few more days. He could be away or something. I have anther e-mail I've used as well for Christian. If I don't hear anything by the weekend I'll use that one. I always try to keep in mind that ET is a rare bird getting back in hours usually.

It can only get worse and I'll wind it normally until something breaks. If it is that fragile I'm not going to not wind something that is meant to be wound. If this is an inherent flaw and they say it only happens while winding that is a big problem for me. Old movements that were shakers are one thing, but if it is meant to be hand wound as well, things should not break on a watch that I've only had since August 2021. If it is going to break I would rather find out while it is still under warranty.
My Crawler SW200's definitely feel different than my other's in different brands. Hopefully everything is fine and it's just the way the watch is built. Appreciate keeping me informed.
 
Problems might go unnoticed until the warranty has expired is one of the drawbacks of having a bigger collection. They might not get as much attention compared to someone who might have six or seven trinkets in their rotation. The group I have been keeping an eye on lately has the Mirage2 included. That one only has to be wound around three times a month with the eight-day power reserve. It has a manual wind movement.
 
Last edited:
Hi Mike,

We use Paul as he is a great watchmaker and he will handle a repair much faster than we can. If you want, I can
send you a label to send it to Paul's Watch Repair for you? We can create a FedEx label for you.

Let me know.
Christian.





OeTTsEq.jpg


This place looks like it was very close to where Gary (GMAN) lived. I'm putting the info up in case someone is close to this shop on the West Coast might find it useful for repairs.




rn5bHqk.jpg
DiFybhv.jpg
7I5eHO5.jpg
u3Z37fS.jpg
UQBIxDi.jpg
m32vf03.jpg
UgosiJn.jpg
asYK7gh.jpg
bwxhNUy.jpg
eFdIxX1.jpg
SPRfs72.jpg
RftIlAk.jpg
Z5QYtzP.jpg
QZCt2Dx.jpg
qUoss4r.jpg
v0Icrw3.jpg
 
This is interesting and good information as I have the 200-1 in my green Navigator. I have had the watch about 4 months and early on called Christian with some questions about the rotating navigator chapter ring, etc. Nice fellow. Told me to wind 10-12 times and to let it charge it self the rest of the way, which is my normal practice. I've not experienced the rotor helicoptering issue but will be on the lookout for it. The winding action actually fells pretty uniform and consistent to me (knock on wood). I think, however that I will steer away from the SW-200 going forward. It's got me thinking about my planned Aquis purchase, too. Might better pony up for the 400.
 
Good luck with your collection YZ. I've been winding NH movements, Miyota 9000, *SW200 (* one from OC and two from DEEP BLUE) + an Omega 8806 and one hand wound with an eight day power reserve. There is definitely a distinct difference from the one that has this issue and the SW200 movements that do not. Some NH movements screw down as smooth as the OMEGA.

As far as the crown functions, threads and operation they all have a slightly different feel regardless of the same movements. Even several from one brand can have a slightly different feel winding and threading the crowns. I think that is due to the factory and workmanship used and length of the crown tube. Some have a distinct pop and others I'll have to find the groove backing the crown off and catching it so it does not cross thread. Doing a bunch like this has made me more in tune and aware of things I might not normally detect when just doing one by itself.
 
Back
Top Bottom