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ARMIDA A8 300m Brass Kit Review, Testing, and Photos
SPECS
INTRO
In recent years the watch industry has been diversifying the materials used in case construction. Two of the more popular of these for the boutique dive watch industry have been the copper alloys of bronze and brass.
Bronze is a metal alloy composed primarily of copper and tin whereas brass is comprised of copper and zinc. Bronze is a hard but somewhat brittle metal with good corrosion resistance and has been popular for marine use and outdoor sculptures. Initially, bronze took the boutique watch scene by storm with its reddish yellow color and natural change to a grayish brown over time. Bronze enthusiasts were attracted to this patina formation that made each piece unique and individual. Bronze has a weight and a durability that continues to make it a very popular material and it commands a premium price over the same designs produced in steel.
(The Thinker by Auguste Rodin, bronze sculpture at Columbia University)
On the other hand, the pale yellow colored metal, brass, hit the boutique watch scene almost by accident. Initially some of the boutique brands experienced issues with their bronze suppliers that led to a few batches of watch cases that were supposed to be bronze actually being made of brass. Brass tends to be more malleable and has superior acoustic characteristics that led to its use in an entire category of musical instruments that bears its name, brass. After a considerable amount of controversy and stress a clear distinction was made between the two metals. Brass is easier to work with having a lower melting point and greater malleability and will develop some of the patina that made bronze so popular among collectors. The brands soon realized that they could make brass watches at a much lower cost than bronze and thus allow collectors to add a copper alloy watch to their collection at a more affordable price. Often the brass watches are priced much lower than their bronze counterparts and are therefore an excellent option for many collectors.
PRESENTATION
First of all let me say that from the time I ordered the watch online from Armida in Hong Kong to it's arrival at my door in Florida it took only 2 days. And best of all the shipping was included in the price of the watch. Armida ships the A8 in a pastel orange plastic cylinder with a gray foam insert. There is a large "A" sticker affixed to the outside to identify that it is an Armida product. Once the top is unscrewed the foam insert slides out and its two halves can be separated. There are grooves cut out in the foam where the watch and the various extras have been securely tucked in.
Considering the price point, the impressive list of extras that Armida includes are an all brass interchangeable bezel with a spare click ring, a black NATO style nylon strap with matching brass fittings, an extra pair of spring pins for strap changes, a good quality double sided strap changing tool.
CASE
As mentioned, the highlight of this watch is the brass case. The case shape is submariner-esque with curved crown protectors flanking an 8mm signed screw down brass crown and brushed finishing throughout. The top surfaces of the lugs are rounded off at the ends of the case and it feels very well machined and has a pleasing heaviness in the ha
One great touch is that the lugs are drilled all the way through to allow for easier strap changes using the included strap tool. Simply insert the tool into the lug hole to depress the spring bar and the strap can be released.
The watch comes with a coin edged brass unidirectional rotating bezel with a black metal insert with gold markings and arabic numerals. The bezel feels very sturdy with no play and 120 clicks per rotation. There is a luminous pip at the 12 o'clock position.
The extra bezel included in the kit is all brass with engraved markings and numerals. It also has a luminous pip at the 12 o'clock position. However there are no instructions or tools provided for exchanging between the two. First impression would be to try to pry the original bezel off of the case with your finger but again it is constructed to such tight tolerances that there is no play to be able to lift the bezel off. The next thought would be to use a pocket knife or watch case knife to pry off the bezel. However, I would caution strongly against this as brass is quite soft and can easily be dented or gouged by a steel instrument.
What I found worked the best was a plastic non-marring scraper from Harbor Freight (http://www.harborfreight.com/4-piece-nonmarring-scraper-set-95832.html). The plastic prevents the tool from scuffing or denting the case and yet is still stiff enough to be able to pry off the bezel. I simply used the long edge of the tool along the bottom edge of the case. Then, using one of the strap lugs as a fulcrum, I carefully lifted the bezel edge upwards until it released from the watch case.
DIAL
The dial is a black enamel with simple clear painted markings. There are circular and stick markings for the hours and a triangle at the 12 position that are composed of a white lume paint center and a thin gold outline. There is an outer ring of gold markings for the individual seconds/minutes. My version does not include a day or date window on the dial. Personally I never use them so they weren't missed.
The brass hour and minute hands are sword shaped and filled with luminous paint. The brass second hand has a small lume circle toward its tip.
Again the overall design is uncluttered and maximizes legibility.
MOVEMENT & ACCURACY
Hidden behind the solid steel screw down case back, Armida has chosen to use the Time Module International (TMI) NH35A japanese automatic movement to power this watch. This choice allows them to maintain a lower price point than using a Swiss movement and still provides a reliable automatic timepiece. TMI is a subsidiary of Seiko Instruments and the NH35A is a 24 jewel movement that is both hacking and hand wind capable. The rotor is bidirectional and help the watch achieve a 40 hour power reserve. The movement beat frequency is 21,600 vibrations per hour which means that the seconds had sweep is slightly more coarse than the 28,800 vph movements such as the Miyota 9100, ETA 2824, and Sellita SW200.
After testing in the face up position on my TimeGrapher 1000 I was very impressed with the regulation of this watch. It showed a deviation of only +1 seconds per day and a low beat error of only 0.4 milliseconds.
STRAPS
The watch arrives on the thick black rubber "Isofrane-style" CUDA strap. This is the same style and brand as seen on some of the other boutique divers and has a faint vanilla scent. There are large rectangular perforations along its length that aid in ventilation and comfort. The strap is neither too stiff nor too soft and is quite comfortable on the wrist. The only issue that I have is that the strap's thickness is not ideal of desk use or typing because of the pressure on the underside of the wrist. The buckle is a nice Panerai Pre-V style constructed of brushed brass and engraved with "ARMIDA".
In addition Armida provides a black nylon NATO-style strap with brass fittings and a spare set of spring bars. This strap is very lightweight and comfortable and again is a great addition for such a well priced watch.
LUME
Green C3 Super Luminova is applied throughout all of the white painted markings. This provides a nice strong glow with a good duration after charging.
CONCLUSION
Overall, I think that the brass boutique dive watch options as a lower cost alternative to bronze are a fantastic choice for those interested in adding their first copper alloy watch. Brass, while being somewhat lighter in color than bronze, will develop a patina and darken over time. Each brass watch will therefore be a unique piece that will age differently based on the owner's use and environment. However, one drawback is that brass is a softer than bronze or steel and therefore is more susceptible to dents and scrapes during day to day use. Although perhaps this will also add to the "character" of the watch over time.
Personally, I find the Armida A8 to be an excellent value based on he extras that are included and the variety of combinations that can be achieved using the included straps and bezels. While I wish that they had included instructions or a tool for changing the bezel it can be done safely using the right tools and
PROS
CONS
DIY PRODUCING BRASS PATINA THROUGH CHEMISTRY...
SPECS
- Model: A8
Case: Brass
Diameter: 42mm case, 43mm bezel
Movement: TMI NH35A
Crystal: Sapphire w/ inner anti-reflective coating
Lume: C3 Super Luminova
Crown: Screw down signed brass
Caseback: Screw down stainless steel
Straps: CUDA black rubber w/ brass buckle, NATO style strap w/ brass buckles
Strap Width: 22mm
Water Resistance: 300 meters
Weight: 144.2 grams on rubber strap
Features: Extra bezel and click ring, strap changing tool included.
Price: $349 shipped from Armidawatches.com
INTRO
In recent years the watch industry has been diversifying the materials used in case construction. Two of the more popular of these for the boutique dive watch industry have been the copper alloys of bronze and brass.
Bronze is a metal alloy composed primarily of copper and tin whereas brass is comprised of copper and zinc. Bronze is a hard but somewhat brittle metal with good corrosion resistance and has been popular for marine use and outdoor sculptures. Initially, bronze took the boutique watch scene by storm with its reddish yellow color and natural change to a grayish brown over time. Bronze enthusiasts were attracted to this patina formation that made each piece unique and individual. Bronze has a weight and a durability that continues to make it a very popular material and it commands a premium price over the same designs produced in steel.
(The Thinker by Auguste Rodin, bronze sculpture at Columbia University)
On the other hand, the pale yellow colored metal, brass, hit the boutique watch scene almost by accident. Initially some of the boutique brands experienced issues with their bronze suppliers that led to a few batches of watch cases that were supposed to be bronze actually being made of brass. Brass tends to be more malleable and has superior acoustic characteristics that led to its use in an entire category of musical instruments that bears its name, brass. After a considerable amount of controversy and stress a clear distinction was made between the two metals. Brass is easier to work with having a lower melting point and greater malleability and will develop some of the patina that made bronze so popular among collectors. The brands soon realized that they could make brass watches at a much lower cost than bronze and thus allow collectors to add a copper alloy watch to their collection at a more affordable price. Often the brass watches are priced much lower than their bronze counterparts and are therefore an excellent option for many collectors.
PRESENTATION
First of all let me say that from the time I ordered the watch online from Armida in Hong Kong to it's arrival at my door in Florida it took only 2 days. And best of all the shipping was included in the price of the watch. Armida ships the A8 in a pastel orange plastic cylinder with a gray foam insert. There is a large "A" sticker affixed to the outside to identify that it is an Armida product. Once the top is unscrewed the foam insert slides out and its two halves can be separated. There are grooves cut out in the foam where the watch and the various extras have been securely tucked in.
Considering the price point, the impressive list of extras that Armida includes are an all brass interchangeable bezel with a spare click ring, a black NATO style nylon strap with matching brass fittings, an extra pair of spring pins for strap changes, a good quality double sided strap changing tool.
CASE
As mentioned, the highlight of this watch is the brass case. The case shape is submariner-esque with curved crown protectors flanking an 8mm signed screw down brass crown and brushed finishing throughout. The top surfaces of the lugs are rounded off at the ends of the case and it feels very well machined and has a pleasing heaviness in the ha
One great touch is that the lugs are drilled all the way through to allow for easier strap changes using the included strap tool. Simply insert the tool into the lug hole to depress the spring bar and the strap can be released.
The watch comes with a coin edged brass unidirectional rotating bezel with a black metal insert with gold markings and arabic numerals. The bezel feels very sturdy with no play and 120 clicks per rotation. There is a luminous pip at the 12 o'clock position.
The extra bezel included in the kit is all brass with engraved markings and numerals. It also has a luminous pip at the 12 o'clock position. However there are no instructions or tools provided for exchanging between the two. First impression would be to try to pry the original bezel off of the case with your finger but again it is constructed to such tight tolerances that there is no play to be able to lift the bezel off. The next thought would be to use a pocket knife or watch case knife to pry off the bezel. However, I would caution strongly against this as brass is quite soft and can easily be dented or gouged by a steel instrument.
What I found worked the best was a plastic non-marring scraper from Harbor Freight (http://www.harborfreight.com/4-piece-nonmarring-scraper-set-95832.html). The plastic prevents the tool from scuffing or denting the case and yet is still stiff enough to be able to pry off the bezel. I simply used the long edge of the tool along the bottom edge of the case. Then, using one of the strap lugs as a fulcrum, I carefully lifted the bezel edge upwards until it released from the watch case.
DIAL
The dial is a black enamel with simple clear painted markings. There are circular and stick markings for the hours and a triangle at the 12 position that are composed of a white lume paint center and a thin gold outline. There is an outer ring of gold markings for the individual seconds/minutes. My version does not include a day or date window on the dial. Personally I never use them so they weren't missed.
The brass hour and minute hands are sword shaped and filled with luminous paint. The brass second hand has a small lume circle toward its tip.
Again the overall design is uncluttered and maximizes legibility.
MOVEMENT & ACCURACY
Hidden behind the solid steel screw down case back, Armida has chosen to use the Time Module International (TMI) NH35A japanese automatic movement to power this watch. This choice allows them to maintain a lower price point than using a Swiss movement and still provides a reliable automatic timepiece. TMI is a subsidiary of Seiko Instruments and the NH35A is a 24 jewel movement that is both hacking and hand wind capable. The rotor is bidirectional and help the watch achieve a 40 hour power reserve. The movement beat frequency is 21,600 vibrations per hour which means that the seconds had sweep is slightly more coarse than the 28,800 vph movements such as the Miyota 9100, ETA 2824, and Sellita SW200.
After testing in the face up position on my TimeGrapher 1000 I was very impressed with the regulation of this watch. It showed a deviation of only +1 seconds per day and a low beat error of only 0.4 milliseconds.
STRAPS
The watch arrives on the thick black rubber "Isofrane-style" CUDA strap. This is the same style and brand as seen on some of the other boutique divers and has a faint vanilla scent. There are large rectangular perforations along its length that aid in ventilation and comfort. The strap is neither too stiff nor too soft and is quite comfortable on the wrist. The only issue that I have is that the strap's thickness is not ideal of desk use or typing because of the pressure on the underside of the wrist. The buckle is a nice Panerai Pre-V style constructed of brushed brass and engraved with "ARMIDA".
In addition Armida provides a black nylon NATO-style strap with brass fittings and a spare set of spring bars. This strap is very lightweight and comfortable and again is a great addition for such a well priced watch.
LUME
Green C3 Super Luminova is applied throughout all of the white painted markings. This provides a nice strong glow with a good duration after charging.
CONCLUSION
Overall, I think that the brass boutique dive watch options as a lower cost alternative to bronze are a fantastic choice for those interested in adding their first copper alloy watch. Brass, while being somewhat lighter in color than bronze, will develop a patina and darken over time. Each brass watch will therefore be a unique piece that will age differently based on the owner's use and environment. However, one drawback is that brass is a softer than bronze or steel and therefore is more susceptible to dents and scrapes during day to day use. Although perhaps this will also add to the "character" of the watch over time.
Personally, I find the Armida A8 to be an excellent value based on he extras that are included and the variety of combinations that can be achieved using the included straps and bezels. While I wish that they had included instructions or a tool for changing the bezel it can be done safely using the right tools and
PROS
- Excellent entry price for collectors seeking to add a copper alloy watch to their collection
Fast order processing with free shipping included
Brass will change its color and appearance over time and add character to the watch
C3 Superluminova throughout
VERY well regulated TMI NH35A automatic movement w/ hacking and hand winding
Sapphire crystal with inner antireflective coating
Extra strap and bezel allow the owner to create a variety of different looks
Drilled lugs and included strap tool for ease of strap changes
CONS
- Brass, as a softer metal, may be more susceptible to wear and tear with use
May be a little small at 42mm for some collectors
Rubber strap may be a little too thick for desk/typing use
NH35A movement frequency of 21,600 vph is lower than its competition
DIY PRODUCING BRASS PATINA THROUGH CHEMISTRY...
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