- Joined
- Jul 17, 2014
- Messages
- 64,647
Oris Big Crown ProPilot X Calibre 115 Watch Debut
SEP 05, 2019 — BY ARIEL ADAMS
https://www.ablogtowatch.com/oris-bi...5-watch-debut/
Swiss Oris does something really different for 2019 with the brand new Oris Big Crown ProPilot X collection that includes the new exclusive Calibre 15 movement. The first part of this news piece will talk about the watch industry context within which a watch like this is born, and then I’ll proceed to discuss the watch itself. While this article does not include hands-on images of the ProPilot X (“PPX,” as I believe it will be called), I was able to personally check out the watch with Oris at Baselworld 2019.
The watch industry is finally coming off of its vintage watch re-issue kick — because consumers (and brand managers) have had enough. Vintage re-issue watches were popular for a number of reasons, but mainly because they were a safe bet and consumers seemed to favor them, for a while. Oris has been a company that, for the most part, was into modern timepieces, but really embraced the vintage watch re-issue trend with gusto — and it earned the brand a good degree of success with consumers. Eventually, mechanical watch brands started to realize that there really isn’t a future in just regurgitating the past. Plus, innovation and fresh designs are needed to keep customers interested.
The Calibre 115 is another of Oris’ exclusive movements that the brand doesn’t produce but that is designed by them and exclusively made for them. The manually wound movement has a “non-linear” power-reserve indicator (which just means that the power-reserve indicator hand moves at a different rate — your eye won’t notice it moving) and a total power reserve of a very long 240 hours. That is a total of 10 days. In addition to the large power-reserve hand, the dial also has the time and subsidiary seconds dial at 8 o’clock. Oris did not include the frequency of the Calibre 115 watch in its press release, for some reason, but I believe that, if it is like the rest of the Calibre 110 family, it operates at 3Hz.
Oris’ design team did a really nice job with the overall movement bridge skeletonization in order to make the Caliber 110 family into the 115. The overall composition mixes symmetrical elements with asymmetry that I feel nicely plays with the naturally eccentric layout of the dial indicators. In medical photography, the contrast between the elements is always high, but recall that most of the dial colors here are gray — with the brass and ruby tones from the movement being more subtle. In a lot of ways, this is a very “gray” watch, but I do like how, with ample lume and hand contrast, you can still read the time easily.
Calibre 115
Calibre 115 is a hand-wound movement operated through the watch’s single crown. When fully wound, the movement will deliver 10 days of power – most mechanical watches run for around two days. This exceptional, 240-hour power reserve is fuelled by a mainspring coiled in a single oversized barrel, visible at 12 o’clock. The power reserve is displayed through an Oris-developed and patented non-linear power reserve indicator at 3 o’clock that shows the power remaining with ever greater accuracy as the time to wind the watch approaches.
REFERENCE 01 115 7759 7153-Set7 22 01TLC
CASE Oris Big Crown ProPilot X, 44.00 mm, 1.732 inches, Titanium
MATERIAL Multi-piece titanium case
SIZE 44.00 mm, 1.732 inches
TOP GLASS Sapphire, domed on both sides, double-sided anti-reflective coating
CASE BACK Titanium, screwed, see-through sapphire glass
OPERATING DEVICES Titanium screw-in security crown
WATER RESISTANCE 10 bar
INTERHORN WIDTH 22 mm
MOVEMENT Hand winding 10-day power reserve, skeleton developed by Oris
NUMBER Oris 115
DIMENSIONS Ø 34.00 mm, 15'''
FUNCTIONS Centre hands for hours and minutes, subsidiary second at 7:30 h, non-linear power reserve indication at 3 h, fine timing device and stop-second
WINDING Hand winding
POWER-RESERVE 240 hrs
VIBRATIONS 21’600 A/h, 3 Hz
JEWELS 38
DIAL Skeleton
MATERIAL Skeleton dial
LUMINOUS MATERIAL Indices and hands Superluminova BG W9
STRAP/BRACELET Titanium
MATERIAL Multi-piece Titanium metal bracelet, folding clasp
EXTRAS The Oris Big Crown ProPilot X Calibre 115 is powered by a skeletonised, in-house developed calibre with a 10-day power reserve and an Oris-patented non-linear power reserve indicator that shows the power remaining with greater accuracy as the time to rewind the watch approaches. The watch comes with a special luxury wooden presentation box and a certificate.