REVIEW:The Glycine Combat Sub Auto 43 - Plus, my take on the Invicta/Glycine Buyout

timetraveler

Tyme Machine
Founding Member
Joined
Jul 15, 2014
Messages
3,002
Those of you that have invested (or wasted) time in reading my recent posts, by now know that I recently picked up three glycine timepieces during a visit to the Newark, Delaware Invicta Store in Christiana Mall. For some reason (probably senility), I did not connect Invicta's buyout of Glycine with the subsidiary's availability in the new owner's stores. Therefore I did not expect to spend much, if any, money during my visit to Newark.

BUT... When I stumbled upon the one showcase of Glycines, - which, by the way was covered with trays of crackers, cheese and cookies - I was mesmerized. I had never seen, much less owned - but absolutely desired - a Glycine watch. Yet there they sat, like fine gemstones; like fine gemstones in the midst of a field of common gravel. Sorry Invicta-lovers (I'm am an Invicta-Liker and own many), but trust me, there is an immediately detectible difference!

The pic below is of the three pieces I chose to own that day. The watch on the right was the first to draw my attention, and is my favorite of the group
by far. Along with my Raven Deep Tech 42, this Combat Sub immediately became one of the "Top-Two" in my 160+ piece collection!

AeRJsi.jpg



Now... Like many across the wide world of watch collectors, I was concerned about the Invicta buyout and what it might mean for Glycine. But after reading the comments of Glycine CEO, Stephan Lack in an interview (which I read months ago on another forum), I was encouraged. Of course it remains to be seen what happens in the future.


Below is a transcript of Mr. Lack's interview on another site with collector, Emre, of Dubai:

Emre
Interview with Stephan Lack regarding Invicta acquiring Glycine Watches SA
Dear Mr Lack, thank you for taking your time to satisfy Glycine enthusiasts curiosity. The information that Invicta Watches bought Glycine Watches SA is one of the hottest topics nowadays in platforms where watch buyers, enthusiasts and collectors frequent. We will be happy to hear from you the direction and what to expect. Thank you for sharing your time answering below questions:

Q1. Mr Lack, directly into the topic with the million dollar question: With Invicta having acquired Glycine and these two brands being in different segments, many Glycine enthusiasts are worried that the Glycine DNA will be changed. What should and could Glycine enthusiasts expect regarding future manufacture and models?

A: Glycine and Invicta brands are two independent brands in the same group. There are absolutely no intentions to have a mixture of the two brands. Glycine will stay Glycine. You can expect further developments mainly in the Airman and in the Combat collection. Glycine will stay a Swiss brand producing mainly automatic Swiss watches at a very attractive price point. In the Airman collection you will find a contemporary line and a historical line. We also see potential in the new Combat SUB Aquarius line where we will extend the line with new striking models.


Q2. With respect to Glycine’s 103 year-old continuous history of watchmaking and its contributions to horology from the very early automatic movements, to 24 hour scale rotating bezels and crown adjusting systems, how do you see Invicta will add value to the brand and its market positioning?

A: The Invicta Group stands for a very healthy and highly successful family company. Invicta will heavily push the distribution in USA / South America and strongly support in marketing services (i.e. social media, webpage, product environment, POS Design). We also see synergies in purchase and production of Swiss made watches.


Q3. Invicta raising concerns with their marketing and sales strategy amongst the watch enthusiasts with heavy discounts ( so as 90% ) and distribution channels ( so as TV ), is Glycine planned to be a part of the whole system ?

A: Glycine is more conservative than Invicta and does not have the similar target group compared to Invicta and Technomarine. Let’s wait and see where it makes sense to ride on the Invicta marketing wave and where not.


Q4. Are there and discussions or plans that Invicta will invest in Glycine for higher segment products with manufacture movements ?

A: Nothing is impossible, the question here is the positioning of the brand in the market. Usually the watch buyers do not really respect the pure price / value of a brand if a brand quits its “perceived” brand positioning. The market sees Glycine in the poisoning of a Swiss mechanical watch brand in the core segment of 700 to 2000 Swiss Francs. I have my doubts whether we could sell big quantities of a Glycine watch with an own caliber at a much higher price point.


Q5. What are Glycine’s current production volumes per annum these years? Do these numbers reach or exceed the company’s expectations? Which models are the most popular?

A: We make about 7500 pieces. We have expected a higher volume for 2015 and 2016, the gap comes mainly from Asia. Therefore I see two reasons: First, Asia is – as we all know - a bit slow in watch sales at the moment. Second, the intention to sell all stakes in the watch industry didn’t make DKSH much ambitious in the last 12 months, in my view. Anyway, we plan a significant growth in the coming years as Asia will become strong again and the US market will become the locomotive.


Q6. Swatch Group not supplying ebauches to outside anymore how does Glycine react to the needs of manufacture.

A: It is as it is. As our production went into the ASUAG production already in 1942 we can say we are still somehow a small part of ETA for almost 75 years. By the way, Swatch Group confirmed Glycine to deliver all desired quantities from 2020 on.


Q7. And finally: As the CEO of Glycine Watches SA is there anything in particular that you would like to say to the fans of the brand and the watches it produces?

A: Dear fans, I am running Glycine now for more than 5 years: I have always respected and will always respect the great history and the strong DNA of this fantastic brand. However this is not enough, in order to have a good chance in the market for the coming 100 years and also to reach new customers we also have to modernize and dynamize Glycine from time to time. This step we mainly do with new products in our contemporary line: The new Airfighter and the new Combat SUB Aquarius are the best examples.


And then, there's this Eyal Lalo quote from A Blog to Watch...


In fact, Invicta's initial excitement over the announcement was met with a chilly reception on social media from Glycine fans – so much so, that Invicta's Facebook and Instagram posts were quickly removed, perhaps indicating a level of sensitivity to feedback from Glycine's existing base of fans and vintage collectors. However, Invicta's CEO Eyal Lalo has assured fans that he has "no intention of disrupting the quality and long history that made Glycine the respected brand that it is today." He went on to say "we will support Glycine while maintaining its independence and rich Swiss heritage," but how that pertains to positioning, design, or distribution remains entirely to be seen.


My personal feeling about the takeover is that if Invicta handles Glycine much as Fossil has handled Zodiac - and is successful in expanding the Glycine brand in North and South America - all will be well.




If you've made it this far, WiTs... I give a big "Thank You". You deserve it!!!



And now, my review of the Glycine Combat Sub 200M:
T9USaV.jpg

6QgWev.jpg


While it takes cues from the Rolex Submariner (as many, many brands of divers do), I consider the Combat Sub to be more of a "similar" piece rather than a pure homage. This is particularly true of the latest executions. Here is a pic of an earlier version:
Glycine-Watch-Combat-Sub-200m-Automatic-Orange-Bezel-3863.18AT-O-LB9B-1.jpg




And here, an image of my current iteration:
SirIXq.jpg


Among the significant differences are the handset designs, and styles of markers and logos. Mechanical and other cosmetics remain the same as far as I can determine.


So... Off we go to an examination of my newest "Most Favored" watch...

First, the specs

COMBAT SUB 42 GL0089| Ref. GL0089
Movement
Calibre: GL224 Swiss automatic movement
Functions: hours, minutes, center seconds and date at 3 o'clock
Size: 11 1/2"
Jewels: 25
Power Reserve: 38 hours Hz: 28'800 A/h
Finish: elabored
Case, Dial & Hands Material: stainless steel and pink gold PVD coated with unidirectional turning bezel with aluminium ring colored, Super-LumiNova® C1 green emission at noon
Diameter: 42.00mm *My calipers measure it as 43mm from 10 to 4*
Height: 10.60mm
Finish: satin/polished
Waterproof: 20 atm
Back: solid steel screwed
Glass: flat sapphire with 3 layers of antireflective coating on the underside
Dial: blue mat, painted indexes with Super-LumiNova®
Hands: pink gold PVD coated polished, green Super-LumiNova®
Crown: screw-in crown with stamped logo

Special Features
Combat SUB engraving on the case back
Straps & Bracelet: Material: silicon strap
Colors: blue
Width: 22.00mm horns / 22.00mm buckle
Buckle: belt buckle


My Images and Comments

The Rose Gold highlights on bezel, dial & hands, and crown, in contrast to the silvertone SS case, are what first attacted me to this particular execution...
IBnct2.jpg


The three AR coatings on the underside of the sapphire crystal make photography of the dark blue dial much easier than it might otherwise be.
SAU38a.jpg



A flat tab at the top of the coin-edge bezel makes locating the "twelve" position as easy by feel, as it is by sight.
yK9oF4.jpg


The slim case (under 11mm) allows this piece to easily slide under a buttoned dress shirt cuff. It also helps with the comfort factor and gives the watch a seductive, sleek appearance.
BaCDix.jpg



Due to the "slim factor", and to ensure a 200M water resistance, the watch utilizes a solid screw-down case back. It is nicely engraved with Glycine's "Combat Dolphins" insignia.
IIwRBN.jpg



As you would expect the two shades of SuperLuminova are bright and long-lasting.
mKWuwU.jpg



For me, and on my 7 1/2" wrist, this timepiece feels great, and has a spectacular look!
mrxbtC.jpg
9H4IlI.jpg
ajvY7d.jpg
fzOzPM.jpg
6NaRtb.jpg
nGUfQO.jpg



So there you have it... My impressions of the Glycine/Invicta association, and more importantly, the Glycine Combat Sub Auto 200M. I've rarely been as attracted to a watch as I am to this Combat Sub.

I have only one con to report. And that is the shape of the buckle and pin are so designed as to make it difficult to engage, and doubly difficult to disengage. On the bright side, I am confident that the buckle will never come loose accidentally!

1MVCE9.jpg




And as always... Thanks for lookin', WiTs!!! :applaud:







 
I hadn't read the interview with the CEO before, so thank you for posting it.

I also have loaded up on Glycines over the past year--some of these deals were just too good to pass up.

I did sell my Combat Subs as they were just a bit too small for me--not by much. They are definitely great watches.

Mostly what I have now are larger Airman (Airmen?), an Airfighter, an Incursore and a Combat 6.

This is one I keep hoping to find a deal one, but haven't seen it at a good price. Haven't seen it at all, in fact:

csm_Glycine-Airman-Chrono-8_978368c6b8.jpg



I also am hoping they will expand the dive watch line. It seems like a natural extension with the Invicta takeover. I like the Lagunare, but I confess I did sell mine as I hadn't worn it in a very long time. I don't have an Aquarius.....I like it but I don't love it. Still hoping to see some new offerings in Glycine Divers.

Lagunare:

GLYCINE-watch-B.jpg


Also, what about a real traditional Pilot? Something big like this Zenith:

Zenith-Pilot-Type-20-GMT-watch-4.jpg


Ok...enough of my musings. Thanks for the awesome post Bill! Enjoy the new additions!
 
Beautiful timepiece Bill . As always great pics and review. Mad congrats my friend!
 
And door #3 is as sweet as the rest. Congrats Bill, they are all beauties. Very nice pics too... enjoy them!
 
while i had enjoyed your folksy blue highway prose in past now i find myself consumed with jealously...not...JK...

-happy your cup flows over...

- your posting of CEO interview explains my observations...GLYCINE DNA in tact...independently operated division...sweet...

-thank u for this gr8 thread

- maybe i will enter those yellow walls in the mall... glycine jewels all spread out in the case like el dorado...

note: had a mixed metal golden-eye which i got BNIB from STEWIE and i traded in exchange the STEINNY OVM with black dial before they made it grey...because i am sub 7" now...it just felt too big...only 3 years ago these were heavily discounted at IGUANA SELL-SPAIN from $1000 down to $700... and now we see a price reflecting a new normal in the watch world-
 
Great review and pics, as always! Thanks for the look and thoughts.
Glycine is still on my short list and I hope to add one to my collection some day.
 
REVIEW:The Glycine Combat Sub Auto 43 - Plus, my take on the Invicta/Glycine Buyout

These are nice examples of what Glycine has to offer. I have been a Glycine fan long before Invicta took over the brand. To be honest though, the brand had very little recognition outside the various watch forums.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Exactly the model I want but with the red bezelcongrats and some great info thanks for sharing this


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Shhhhh, I didn't want to make your other new Glycines jealous but this is by far my favorite of the three, love that unique color combo. Great review & pics, and thanks for including the informative interview.
 
You've outdone yourself with this review, Bill. And adding the interview was beneficial for all of us. Congrats on your new babies, thanks for the great info and pics, and enjoy! :good: :applaud:
 
What a great thread. I love reading threads written in depth with lots of photos. I'd never read that interview. That was an added bonus thank you.

Sent from my SM-T378V using Tapatalk
 
Thank you Bill for being you !!! Nicely written prose with your pics and the interview, so another
informative piece wit excellent pics !!!
 
Glycine has a thing about buckles. That was a GRreeaatt write-up Bill
 
Great review & pics - beautiful watches - congratulations & enjoy!
 
Back
Top Bottom